Caitie from Amsterdam contacted me recently regarding her old German zither that was missing a wound string. She wasn’t prepared to replace the entire set and was doubtful that sets are even available. Can the string be replaced with a suitable guitar string? How does one do that?
Ideally, an ancient string set should be replaced but what if availibility or expense is a problem? What do you do when an autoharp string breaks the afternoon before the big gig? A guitar string of the correct size and construction can be a quick, temporary fix until a proper string can be found and installed.
Substituting a plain (not wound) string is easy. Determine the correct diameter and use the same size guitar string keeping in mind if it requires a loop end or a ball end. The thicker strings with windings around a core wire are more difficult because they must be modified so that no windings cross the bridges. This can be done by carefully unwinding portions of both ends so that only core crosses the bridges. Most guitar strings aren’t made to be unwound so in doing so, the remaining windings can become loose and noisy. Here, I’ll describe how I successfully unwind and secure guitar strings.
The guitar strings winding is too thick to fit in the slot.
This Oscar Schmidt “B” model features bridge pins on the tuning pin end and a slotted comb on the tail end. It requires a ball end string but the thick windings at the ball are too thick to fit in the slot. I snip the ball and the thick bit off, unwind and expose enough core wire to twist around the ball, and continue to remove enough winding to clear the bridge when the string is seated in the slot (this hassle is mostly unnecessary for autoharps that use loop end strings).
The ball is removed and the winding unraveled.
A small finishing nail, inserted through the hole in the ball and clamped in a vise, makes it easier to hold the ball while twisting the core wire around it. Three or four turns will hold it and the ball can be twisted to tighten the loop. Leave a small tail on the core wire to prevent it from twisting loose.
The core wire is twisted around the ball and enough winding is removed to clear the bridge.
The end of the string is trimmed 2″ beyond the tuning pin.
The tuning pin has already been backed out three complete turns to accept the new string. With the prepared ball end seated in the slot, the other end is positioned around its bridge pin, pushed through the tuning pin hole, and held to hand tension. While holding everything in place, I snip the string off 2″ beyond the tuning pin and mark the winding 1-1/4″ below the bridge pin. The 2″ tail will allow three complete turns on the tuning pin and the mark is where the winding will end without crossing the bridge.
The winding is marked 1-1/4″ below the bridge pin.
Only the winding is cut, not the core wire.
Only a slight tap is necessary to flatten the last few turns of the winding.
I lightly score the winding where I marked it being careful not to cut the core wire. The winding is unreveled to this point.
I “peen” the last few winding turns at each end to prevent the winding from becoming loose.
With the new guitar string in tune, the windings stop short of the bridge pin. The new string will sound different than its mates but will fill the gap untill replacements arrive. Flattening the ends of the windings is usually successful but if they work loose, it sometimes helps to crimp them tighter with pliers or apply a small drop of CA glue to stop the buzz.